Jomsom Jomsom is more correctly known as Dzongsam or New Fort. It spreads over both the banks of the Kali Gandaki. The towering peaks of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri form an attractive backdrop. Being the district headquarters, it is primarily an administrative and commercial center with government officials and merchants rubbing shoulders with the local inhabitants of the region, known as the Thakalis. It has a wireless station, a police station, a bank, a hospital and a veterinary hospital. A company of the Nepalese Army is stationed here. Nearby is an airfield, from where flights operate regularly. However, due to the strong winds that buffet the area in the afternoons, the airfield is functional only in the forenoon.

A family in Jomsom Credit: Geert Desmet

The Thakalis living in the Jomsom region and in the nearby villages of Marpha and Tukuche have been known for their trading skills. They occupy an important village on the traditional trade route between the Gangetic plains of India and Tibet.

The views from Jomsom are enchanting as the golden rays of the rising and setting sun are reflected by the Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri ranges. The entire panorama is filled with a golden, glittering light which forms a dramatic contrast with the barren, black and dry mountains of the surrounding Kali Gandaki valley.

Thakalis
The Thakalis living in the Jomsom region (Central Nepal) and in the nearby villages of Marpha and Tukuche have been known for their trading skills. They occupy an important village on the traditional trade route between the Gangetic plains of India and Tibet.

To help their fellow men, the Thakali people have organized a system called "Thigur", in which groups of 20 to 30 people pool certain amounts of money according to their individual capacity. This money is then given to any member of the group who is in dire need of money for starting a business. The loan is repayable in easy installments. Such a sense of trust in their fellow members is indeed commendable.

Many of the Thakalis have migrated to cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara, but due to the influx of tourists, quite a few return during the summer to run restaurants and hotels.

The Thakalis follow a mixture of Buddhism and Hinduism, with the latter holding sway. They have a rather "interesting" marriage custom. The bridegroom abducts a girl of his choice, takes her to his house and has to get her to agree to marry him. If she accedes to his proposal within three days their parents work out the remaining formalities. Otherwise, the girl returns home and the process is repeated with someone else. There is no taboo on marrying cousins.